
Barbarian Days
A Surfing Life
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Narrated by:
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William Finnegan
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By:
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William Finnegan
About this listen
Pulitzer Prize, Biography, 2016
A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer.
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter.
Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses - off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the listener in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly - he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay on Maui - is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves.
As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying listeners with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- By: Chas Smith, Joan Jett - foreword
- Narrated by: Chas Smith
- Length: 7 hrs and 12 mins
- Unabridged
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith's wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu's North Shore - a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu's paradisiacal North Shore for surfing's Triple Crown competition. Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.
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Chas Smith is a jerk, but he writes well
- By Kevin Degnan on 12-15-22
By: Chas Smith, and others
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Hound of the Sea
- Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom.
- By: Garrett McNamara, Karen Karbo
- Narrated by: Rudy Sanda
- Length: 8 hrs and 27 mins
- Unabridged
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Big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara set the world record for the sport, surfing a 78-foot wave in Nazare, Portugal, in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes - to risk everything for one thrilling ride?
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Awesome Story and Narration.
- By oregonlife on 10-16-18
By: Garrett McNamara, and others
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Eddie Would Go
- The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing
- By: Stuart Holmes Coleman
- Narrated by: Kaipo Schwab
- Length: 11 hrs and 46 mins
- Unabridged
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Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman."
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Cocaine + Surfing
- A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair
- By: Chas Smith
- Narrated by: Tom Pile
- Length: 7 hrs and 19 mins
- Unabridged
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It is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-'70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws. Tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. As the surf brands accidentally morphed into a multimillion- then multibillion-dollar industry beginning in the 1980s, however, the derelict portrait began to harm business.
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Narrator is a joke caricature of what the public t
- By Kyle Douglas on 01-13-19
By: Chas Smith
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Force of Nature
- Mind, Body, Soul, and, of Course, Surfing
- By: Laird Hamilton
- Narrated by: Michael Butler Murray
- Length: 4 hrs and 53 mins
- Unabridged
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Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows listeners a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig farm; who dropped out of school in 11th grade. And then the career decision: surfer.
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okay i guess
- By megan parker on 12-27-22
By: Laird Hamilton
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The History of Surfing
- By: Matt Warshaw
- Narrated by: Paul Boehmer
- Length: 30 hrs and 17 mins
- Unabridged
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Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original.
By: Matt Warshaw
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The Lost City of Z
- A Tale of Deadly Obsession in the Amazon
- By: David Grann
- Narrated by: Mark Deakins
- Length: 10 hrs and 4 mins
- Unabridged
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A sensational disappearance that made headlines around the world. A quest for truth that leads to death, madness or disappearance for those who seek to solve it. The Lost City of Z is a blockbuster adventure narrative about what lies beneath the impenetrable jungle canopy of the Amazon. After stumbling upon a hidden trove of diaries, acclaimed New Yorker writer David Grann set out to find out what happened to the British explorer Percy Fawcett and his quest for the Lost City of Z.
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A Worthy Read for Armchair Explorers
- By Jennifer Seattle, WA on 03-01-09
By: David Grann
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To Shake the Sleeping Self
- A Journey from Oregon to Patagonia, and a Quest for a Life with No Regret
- By: Jedidiah Jenkins
- Narrated by: Jedidiah Jenkins
- Length: 12 hrs and 13 mins
- Unabridged
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On the eve of turning 30, terrified of being funneled into a life he didn’t choose, Jedidiah Jenkins quit his dream job and spent 16 months cycling from Oregon to Patagonia. He chronicled the trip on Instagram, where his photos and reflections drew hundreds of thousands of followers, all gathered around the question: What makes a life worth living? In this unflinchingly honest memoir, Jed narrates his adventure - the people and places he encountered on his way to the bottom of the world - as well as the internal journey that started it all.
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Different that I expected
- By Sabrina on 02-21-20
By: Jedidiah Jenkins
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Wanderlust
- An Eccentric Explorer, an Epic Journey, a Lost Age
- By: Reid Mitenbuler
- Narrated by: Peter Noble
- Length: 19 hrs and 13 mins
- Unabridged
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Deep in the Arctic wilderness, Peter Freuchen awoke to find himself buried alive under the snow. During a sudden blizzard the night before, he had taken shelter underneath his dogsled and become trapped there while he slept. Now, as feeling drained from his body, he managed to claw a hole through the ice only to find himself in even greater danger: his beard, wet with condensation from his struggling breath, had frozen to his sled runners and lashed his head in place, exposing it to icy winds that needed only a few minutes to kill him. If Freuchen could escape that, he could escape anything.
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Amazingly in-depth look at an amazing person.
- By Dave on 06-18-23
By: Reid Mitenbuler
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Wild
- From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail
- By: Cheryl Strayed
- Narrated by: Bernadette Dunne
- Length: 13 hrs and 2 mins
- Unabridged
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At 22, Cheryl Strayed thought she had lost everything. In the wake of her mother's death, her family scattered and her own marriage was soon destroyed. Four years later, with nothing more to lose, she made the most impulsive decision of her life: to hike the Pacific Crest Trail from the Mojave Desert through California and Oregon to Washington State - and to do it alone. She had no experience as a long-distance hiker, and the trail was little more than “an idea, vague and outlandish and full of promise.” But it was a promise of piecing back together a life that had come undone.
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Glad I Took the Trip
- By FanB14 on 04-08-13
By: Cheryl Strayed
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Swell
- A Sailing Surfer's Voyage of Awakening
- By: Liz Clark
- Narrated by: Liz Clark
- Length: 12 hrs and 31 mins
- Unabridged
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Captain Liz Clark spent her youth dreaming of traveling the world by sailboat and surfing remote waves. When she was 22, she met a mentor who helped turn her desire into reality. Embarking on an adventure that most only fantasize about, she set sail from Santa Barbara, California, as captain of her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, headed south in search of surf, self, and the wonder and learning that lies beyond the unbroken horizon.
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such a disapointment
- By Mikel marchant on 01-21-20
By: Liz Clark
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Into Thin Air
- A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster
- By: Jon Krakauer
- Narrated by: Philip Franklin
- Length: 9 hrs and 8 mins
- Unabridged
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The definitive, personal account of the deadliest season in the history of Everest by the acclaimed journalist and author of Into the Wild. Read by the author. Also, hear a Fresh Air interview with Krakauer conducted shortly after his ordeal.
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Audio version RUINED with new narrator!
- By Shannon Ellis on 02-06-16
By: Jon Krakauer
What listeners say about Barbarian Days
Average customer ratingsReviews - Please select the tabs below to change the source of reviews.
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- Lori K.
- 08-27-17
Gave up on this one
I have to give up on this book. Not caring about every aspect of a wave makes this one a bore to me. It just seemed repetitive talking about waves and fear and courage and all the different boards and positions and places and curves and speed and blah blah blah. The rest of the story about the travels and the writing and the girls just wasn't enough to hold me. Also, I am never a fan of an author reading their own material. Halfway through, I just can't do anymore. I'll keep it, as my husband might like it someday.
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4 people found this helpful
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- Hardy Sullivan
- 06-25-16
THE surf book
I was looking for a light, fun read (listen) after a couple of heavier books - All The President's Men (ugh) and All The Light We Cannot See (excellent). Barbarian Days gave me what I was looking for plus some. Bill captures the beauty, allure, dread and triumph that is surfing. His vivid imagery let's you peer over his shoulder as he experiences a global array of lineups as the surfing world morphed. Not to be overlooked, however, is the story of maturing - the realization the thrills of life, while amazing and worthwhile, are not the ultimate source of happiness. Sending out an East Coaster hoot to this ride.
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2 people found this helpful
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- adam Jaffe
- 09-11-15
Fantastic!
Thoroughly enjoyed this book. One need not be a surfer (I'm far from it) to enjoy this. While the author focuses his life story around surfing, it's about much more than that. Life, adventure, dreams, fears...
Loved Finnegan's voice.
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1 person found this helpful
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- Michael W.
- 04-20-17
need an escape from the real world?
Then this book is for you! amazing details, steeped in adventure and an honestly unique narrative. A must read for anyone who has dreamed of dropping off the edge of the map for some higher calling.
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1 person found this helpful
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- Robert
- 04-21-20
Couldn't wait to write a review!!!
Ok, so I like to give context to reviews. I am a late 40's American with a wife and 2 kids. I have been an Audible member since 2005 and listen to mostly science fiction, fantasy and some fiction. Almost never nonfiction. I came across this book and recalled really liking one I'd listened to by the same author (Climbing with Mollie) which was part of the monthly give-away books that audible does. That one was about his learning about rock climbing with his young daughter. Something about that book really drew me in. Really everything about it did. The story, narration, characters, and mostly the detail and passion he used to describe rock climbing. For the record, I didn't previously and don't currently have any interest in rock climbing but there is something about the way he wrote about it and how it interweaved with his relationship with his daughter that captivated me. When I saw this book was a memoir of sorts centered around surfing, something I knew a lot more about having spent my college days living on the beach in Florida, I was pretty sure I'd like it. Sure enough, it was love at first listen. I am only a few hours in but I can honestly say I've liked this book more than 99% of the others I've listened to. So much insight to a generation only a little before mine and a whole lot of insight into how much "worse" things were then. If we only had social media, 24/7 news coverage and such to know what kids got up to we'd have likely been shocked. Or maybe not. Finegan's ability to transport you back to a different time and not shy away from his personal story nor handling some of the more touchy subjects of the day is amazing. I think it helps that I have surfed before but honestly I loved his rock climbing book as much and never climbed a rock in my life so I think most people who like a good story would like this book. So far 5 stars isn't enough. As for the criticism of the countless descriptions of waves, etc, I guess you could say the same about the rock climbing book but I thought that detail and his passionate description was critical to the tone of that story just like his descriptions of the waves are critical to this one. It's almost zen IMHO.
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1 person found this helpful
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- Nic
- 08-08-17
Biased Surfer
I am biased: I used to surf. I am from Cape Town and have surfed and been to many of the places that Will writes about. I did not surf them. For me; a memoir of how it is to surf. How deep this addiction reaches into your being.
I am appreciative of the bareing of his soul and his life's journey. Thank you, Will. PS I am 57. I still skate as much as I can. Yes, my hip does hurt. And, I still dream ...
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1 person found this helpful
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- Roland Harper
- 08-20-22
Fantastic
What a great story. It had the magical quality of meeting a person at a party and that person telling you their life story, and you never wanting the story to end. I know nothing about surfing and don’t have much interest, but his story was captivating. I loved it.
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1 person found this helpful
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- K J Malone
- 08-15-16
surprisingly amazingly engaging
narrated in matter-of-fact tones by the author great story with good insights and no superheroes
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- MaryT
- 11-14-17
Poignant and Well Written
I️ thoroughly enjoyed this book as a CA beach girl about the same age as the author. I️ loved hearing about many of the places I️ visited in my teenage years. This book was so well thought out, and I️ didn’t know he was a writer for The New Yorker, as I️ don’t subscribe to that magazine or it’s political thinking. However, I️ am open-minded as a conservative and absolutely loved his eloquence in writing and felt a deep connection in listening to him describe his family, friends and places traveled. I️ was raised an Irish, Catholic in a democratic home, so I️ appreciated hearing of his heritage. His work in writing this book is a gift. I’ll recommend this book to others. It was a pleasure reading it.
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- Dominic Garofalo
- 09-23-20
Thoughtful Memoir of a Life Well Surfed
A deepy personal journey with thoughtful commentary on all aspects of surfing through its history.
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